Moscow: The Complete Travel Guide
Moscow is huge and overwhelming, but once you understand how it works it’s one of the easiest capitals in Europe to visit. Here’s how to get there, how many days to spend, where to stay, what to see, and all my guides to the city sorted by topic.
In 30 seconds
Moscow in numbers
- 4-6 daysto see the essentials without rushing. With 3 you’ll stay in the centre.
- Septemberis the best month for me: golden light, colourful parks and fewer tourists.
- No direct flightsfrom the EU: connect in Istanbul, Belgrade, Yerevan or Dubai.
- 3 h 45 minby high-speed train to Saint Petersburg, the most common combination.
- 4 airportsSheremetyevo, Domodedovo, Vnukovo and Zhukovsky, all linked to the centre.
- Visa and Mastercardissued abroad don’t work: bring cash or a MIR card.
Getting there
How to get to Moscow
Since 2022 there have been no direct flights between the European Union and Russia, so to fly to Moscow you need to connect in a third country: Istanbul (Turkish Airlines and Pegasus), Belgrade (Air Serbia), Yerevan (Aeroflot, FlyOne) or Dubai (Emirates, flydubai). In my experience, Istanbul is usually the cheapest option with the most frequencies. I cover routes and how to pay with a foreign card in my guide to flights to Russia.
Moscow has four international airports: Sheremetyevo (SVO), Aeroflot’s base; Domodedovo (DME); Vnukovo (VKO), widely used by Turkish airlines, and Zhukovsky (ZIA), the smallest. All four are linked to the centre by Aeroexpress, bus or metro. You can also arrive overland via Estonia, Latvia, Kaliningrad, Norway or Georgia, although for Moscow flying usually makes more sense: it’s all in my borders guide.
When and how long
Best time to go and how many days to spend
Moscow has four very distinct seasons. From May to September you get long days, outdoor terraces and average temperatures of 18 to 25 °C; June and July are the busiest months and can hit 30 °C. September and early October are, for me, the best: mild weather, parks turning red and yellow, and fewer people. From November to March it’s properly cold (averages of -7 to -10 °C), but the snowy city, with the Christmas lights and the Bolshoi in full season, is unforgettable. The only time I’d avoid is April and early May, with the thaw.
My advice: at least 4 full days, ideally 5 or 6. With 3 days you’ll see Red Square, the Kremlin, the Tretyakov and not much else. If you’re combining it with Saint Petersburg, 4 days in each city plus a day on the train between them is about right.
Where to stay
Where to stay in Moscow
For a first trip, stay inside the Boulevard Ring or, at most, the Garden Ring: you’ll be able to walk to the Kremlin, Red Square, the Bolshoi and Tverskaya Street. The handiest areas are Tverskaya-Pushkinskaya, Kitay-Gorod, Zamoskvorechye and Arbat. If you’re on a budget, the areas around Komsomolskaya, Krasnoselskaya or Sokolniki are 15-20 minutes from the centre by metro.
Western booking platforms no longer operate in Russia. I explain which websites work with a foreign card in my guide to hotels and apartments in Russia.
What to see
What to see and do in Moscow
Red Square, the Kremlin and the centre
It all starts on Red Square, home to four must-see sights: the Kremlin, with the tsars’ treasures in the Armoury; St Basil’s Cathedral; Lenin’s Mausoleum, free and open only a few hours a week; and the GUM arcades. A few minutes away are the Cathedral of Christ the Saviour, the tallest Orthodox church in the world, and Arbat Street, the city’s most famous pedestrian street.
- What to see on Red Square
- The Kremlin: what to see and tickets
- The Kremlin Diamond Fund
- Inside St Basil’s Cathedral
- Lenin’s Mausoleum
- The Cathedral of Christ the Saviour
- A walk along Arbat Street
Monasteries and architecture
Novodevichy Convent, a World Heritage Site, and its cemetery (Chekhov, Gogol, Shostakovich) are among the most memorable and least crowded visits. From the 20th century, Stalin’s Seven Sisters and, at the other extreme, the glass skyscrapers of Moscow City. And from the river, the city’s most photogenic bridges.
- Novodevichy Convent and cemetery
- Stalin’s Seven Sisters
- Moscow City and its viewing decks
- Moscow’s most beautiful bridges
Museums, palaces and parks
Three museums I’d call essential: the Tretyakov Gallery, the world’s best collection of Russian art; the Pushkin Museum of Fine Arts; and the Museum of Cosmonautics. Of the parks, my favourite is VDNKh, a sort of 500-hectare Soviet Disneyland; then Gorky Park, the modern Zaryadye and the palace parks of Kolomenskoye and Tsaritsyno.
- Moscow’s museums: which to visit
- The Tretyakov Gallery
- The Museum of Cosmonautics
- VDNKh, the most Soviet park
- Gorky Park
- Zaryadye Park
- Kolomenskoye Park
- Tsaritsyno, Catherine the Great’s folly
Viewpoints, boats and guided tours
Moscow has spectacular viewpoints, from Sparrow Hills to the 89th floor of the Federation Tower, plus its best-kept secret: the free one at Detsky Mir, opposite the Lubyanka. A boat trip on the Moskva shows you the city from another angle, and if you’d rather have it explained in English, there are guided tours you can pay for with a foreign card.
- The best viewpoints in Moscow
- Boat trips on the Moskva
- Guided tours you can pay for with a foreign card
Shows and experiences
A night at the Bolshoi is worth the trip on its own (the season runs from September to July). Russian folklore and the classic circus are two good evenings out if you’re travelling with kids, and don’t leave without trying a banya, the traditional steam bath. For film buffs, the Mosfilm studios.
Food and shopping
Where to eat and what to buy in Moscow
Russian food is much more than borscht and pelmeni: blini, pirozhki, solyanka, stroganoff, and medovik or Napoleon cake for dessert. But Moscow’s big surprise is the food from the former Soviet republics, especially Georgian and Uzbek. Many restaurants can’t be booked through Western platforms: you do it on Yandex Maps or Telegram.
- Russian cuisine: typical dishes
- Where to eat in Moscow
- Where to eat cheaply in Moscow
- How to book a restaurant
- Kvass, the fermented Russian drink
For shopping, if you only go to one place, make it the Izmailovo Kremlin, the souvenir market with the best value for money. In the centre, GUM is a work of art in itself, and Arbat and Detsky Mir round off the route.
Getting around
Public transport in Moscow
The metro is fast, clean, cheap and an attraction in itself: stations like Mayakovskaya, Komsomolskaya or Ploshchad Revolyutsii are underground museums. It runs from 5:30 am to 1 am, and the easiest way to pay is the Troika card, which also works on buses, trams and suburban trains. For taxis, Yandex Go.
Day trips
Day trips from Moscow
If you have an extra day, the classic is the Golden Ring: Sergiev Posad is 1 hour 20 minutes away by fast train, and Suzdal and Vladimir make a good weekend. Another very original trip is Star City, the cosmonaut training centre, booked in advance. And if you have more time, Kazan and the Trans-Siberian both start from Moscow.
Before you land
What to sort out before you go
- Visae-Visa for up to 30 daysYou apply online, it costs AED 238 (about US$65) and it’s valid for entry through Moscow’s airports.
- MoneyYour cards won’t workCash to change into roubles or a MIR card set up before you leave.
- InternetAn eSIM before you goYou’re online as soon as you land, with no passport paperwork.
- MandatoryMedical insuranceIt’s required for the visa and must be valid in Russia.
First-hand
Traveller stories from Moscow
Travellers who have been to Moscow recently have told me about their trip: how they got in, what worked for paying and staying online, and what they made of the city.
- From St Petersburg to Lake Baikal in 24 Days: Nicolas and Lara’s Chronicle
- Moscow to Vladivostok Non-Stop: Jérémie’s Trans-Siberian, from Estonia to China
- Moscow to Vladivostok Non-Stop: 7 Days on the Trans-Siberian, Guy’s Story
- New Year in Moscow on Cash Alone: Sophia’s Chronicle from Singapore
- Two trips to Russia on a US passport: John’s chronicle
- Nine Trips to Russia from the Czech Republic: Natálie’s Chronicle
- Altai and Baikal in 20 Days: Dan’s Chronicle from Prague to Kazan
- “They Warned Me I’d Be Arrested”: Bonnie’s Moscow Chronicle
- “I Told Everyone I Was Hiking in Germany”: Kira’s Trans-Siberian Chronicle
- Moscow and St Petersburg with three teenagers: Jacobus’s chronicle
- From Norway to Moscow in a 1991 Cadillac: John’s Chronicle
- Nineteen and Bound for Russia: Ernst’s Chronicle from Pechory, St Petersburg and Moscow
- Moscow Solo at 85: Bente’s Chronicle
- Into Russia via Kaliningrad in Winter: Joseph’s Chronicle
- Moscow to Vladivostok: Rajendra and Jayshree’s Month in Russia
- From Brussels to Shanghai by Solar Bike: 3,600 km Across Russia, Claude’s Chronicle
- Flying into Russia from China: Shea’s Moscow and Kazan Chronicle
- Kazan, Moscow and St Petersburg: 13 Days in Russia (a Reader’s Chronicle)
- From La Roche-sur-Yon to Moscow Overland: Nicolas’s Winter Odyssey
- St. Petersburg, Moscow and Kislovodsk: Francesco’s Chronicle (and the Four Routes to Enter Russia)
- Five Hours in the Narva Queue: Michael’s Chronicle from St. Petersburg and Moscow
- Moscow and St. Petersburg with Guides: Catherine’s Chronicle
- Moscow, Suzdal and Vladimir: Fran’s Practical Chronicle
- From Kaliningrad to the Volga: Alberto’s Chronicle Across Russia
- St. Petersburg and Moscow on Your Own: Iñaki’s Chronicle
- «Half my euros were refused»: 3 weeks on the Trans-Siberian, Philippe’s story
FAQ
Frequently asked questions about Moscow
How many days are enough for Moscow?
I recommend at least 4 full days to see the essentials (Red Square, the Kremlin, the Tretyakov, St Basil’s, an evening at the Bolshoi and a couple of walks). With 5 or 6 days you can add VDNKh, Novodevichy, Moscow City, Kolomenskoye and a trip to Sergiev Posad. If you’re combining it with Saint Petersburg, 4 days in each city and a day on the train between them is about right.
When is the best time to visit Moscow?
May to September for walking and enjoying the parks. September and early October are, in my opinion, the best months: mild weather, golden light and fewer tourists. Winter is very authentic, with the city under snow, but you need to be ready for average temperatures around -10 °C. The only time I’d avoid is April and early May, because of the thaw.
Are there direct flights to Moscow from Europe?
No. Since 2022 the airspace between the European Union and Russia has been closed, so you need to connect in a third country. The most common hubs are Istanbul, Belgrade, Yerevan and Dubai; Istanbul is usually the cheapest option with the most frequencies.
Do Visa and Mastercard work in Moscow?
No. Visa and Mastercard cards issued outside Russia have not worked since March 2022: not in shops, not at ATMs, not for taxis or online payments. You need cash to change into roubles or a Russian MIR card, which foreigners can get.
Is Moscow safe?
For tourists, Moscow is a safe city: crime against visitors is very low and there’s a visible security presence in tourist areas. The precautions are the same as in any big European capital, and it’s wise to follow the rules on photographing military or government sites.
What visa do I need to visit Moscow?
For most Europeans, the e-Visa: you apply online, it costs AED 238 (about US$65 / €58), it arrives within 4 days and it allows stays of up to 30 days, entering through Moscow’s airports. For longer stays or multiple entries you need a regular visa. Either way, medical insurance valid in Russia is mandatory.
Can I combine Moscow and Saint Petersburg on the same trip?
Yes, it’s the most typical combination for a first trip. The two cities are linked by the Sapsan high-speed train in 3 hours 45 minutes. With 9 days, 4 nights in each city and a day on the train; with a week, 4 and 3.
Still have questions?
Ask someone who’s just been
On the Russiable forum there are travellers who’ve been to Moscow recently. And if you’re still unsure about your route, compare all of Russia’s destinations here.
Golden Ring
Trans-Siberian
Kazan