From Kaliningrad to the Volga: Alberto’s Chronicle Across Russia

I’m carrying on with the traveler chronicles. Today’s is from Alberto, a reader from Tarragona, in Spain, who in July 2025 put together one of the most complete itineraries I’ve seen: he entered Russia overland from Poland, via Kaliningrad, and from there linked up St. Petersburg, Moscow and a Volga cruise all the way to Kazan. One of those trips that combine the two capitals with the less touristy side of Russia.

What follows is Alberto’s account, with his own tips and photos. Thanks, Alberto, for sharing it.

Entering via Kaliningrad from Poland: five hours at customs

We entered from Poland into Kaliningrad by bus. At customs we were held for more than five hours. We slept there and the next day flew to St. Petersburg.

St. Petersburg: six days in an immaculate city

We spent six days in St. Petersburg. It’s a wonderful city, without a single wasted square meter: everything spotlessly clean. Prices are cheaper than in Spain, but expensive for Russians, because with the conflict in Ukraine inflation has soared for them.

On the whole you see a good standard of living, though I was struck by the number of elderly people selling fruit or flowers in the street, or simply begging, because retirement pensions are so low.

By overnight train to Moscow

From St. Petersburg to Moscow we traveled on an overnight train, and we stayed four days in Moscow.

Irena’s note: the overnight train between the two capitals is one of the best ways to get around Russia. I explain how to buy tickets from abroad in the guide on how to buy train tickets in Russia.

Volga cruise to Kazan

After that, from a city about 500 km from Moscow —I think it was called something like Nizhny Novgorod—, we set off on a five-day Volga cruise. Along the way we made quick stops in several cities whose names I don’t remember, except for Kazan. When it was over we went back to Moscow to spend one more day before heading home to Barcelona.

Irena’s note: on Kazan, the jewel of the route, you have the guide on things to do in Kazan and another one dedicated to the Kazan Kremlin.

Money: cash only and exchange at the banks

Western credit and debit cards don’t work. It’s better to bring cash and exchange it at the banks at the official rate. You barely see any exchange offices, unlike what happens in other nearby countries, such as Georgia —where I was in May—, which had a currency-exchange booth every twelve meters.

Irena’s note: Alberto sums it up perfectly. Here’s the guide on how to pay in Russia: what works and what doesn’t and another one on where to exchange euros or dollars for rubles.

What I take away from Alberto’s chronicle

That’s Alberto’s account. I’m left with several things: that entering overland via Kaliningrad is possible but you have to reckon with long waits at customs; that St. Petersburg is impressive for how well kept it is; that the overnight train between the two capitals is about as comfortable as it gets; that a Volga cruise to Kazan is a beautiful complement to Moscow and St. Petersburg; and, on money, the golden rule every traveler repeats: Western cards don’t work, so you have to bring cash and exchange it at the banks, because exchange offices are few and far between.

Have you traveled to Russia recently and want to share your experience? Write to me with your account and your photos and I’ll publish it in this section, under your name or anonymously, whichever you prefer. Accounts like Alberto’s are the ones that really help people who are planning their trip.