Nineteen and Bound for Russia: Ernst’s Chronicle from Pechory, St Petersburg and Moscow

Ernst Selin is 19, from Sweden, and travelled to Russia with a Russian friend in the summer of 2026 — a first big trip that took him from a ferry out of Stockholm all the way to Moscow, and home again through the Narva border. His account is short but full of the wide-eyed wonder of a first visit: the ten-hour wait at the border, the great monastery at Pechory, the palaces of St Petersburg and the sheer scale of Moscow. If you’re young, curious, and wondering whether to make the trip, Ernst’s chronicle is a lovely place to start. For two more accounts of the same land borders, see Michael’s crossing at Narva and Leo’s account on foot.

What follows is Ernst’s own story, in his words, with his own photos. I’ve kept it faithful to what he wrote and only smoothed the flow. Thank you, Ernst, for sharing it.

TravellerErnst Selin
FromSweden
Age19
WhenLate June to early July 2026
RouteStockholm → Tallinn by ferry → Koidula border → Pechory → St Petersburg → Moscow, home via Narva
EntryeVisa (electronic visa)
Travelling withA Russian friend, who acted as guide and interpreter

Approximate route of Ernst’s trip. The dashed line is the leg outside Russia (Stockholm to Tallinn by ferry, then on to the Koidula border); the solid line is the journey inside Russia: Pechory, then St Petersburg, then Moscow, returning through Narva.

Getting there: a ferry, and a long wait at the border

I’m a 19-year-old traveller, and this is my journey to Russia. My friend, who is Russian, and I took a ferry from Stockholm that brought us across to Tallinn, the capital of Estonia. The overnight crossing is a trip in itself — a cabin, a porthole, and the Baltic sliding past outside.

A ferry cabin with a red sofa, a round porthole mirror and a suitcase covered in travel stickers
My cabin on the overnight ferry from Stockholm to Tallinn. Photo: Ernst Selin.

From Tallinn we made our way to the border at Koidula. We waited ten hours before getting into Russia, and that was down to all the interviews the FSB conducts. In my interview I told them about my family, how I live, and my purpose in Russia. If you’re planning your own crossing, it’s worth reading Irena’s detailed guide to the Estonia–Russia border at Narva, Koidula and Luhamaa before you go, so the waits and the questions don’t catch you by surprise.

A blue road sign reading Russia in Cyrillic and Latin at the border at night, with cars queuing
The moment it becomes real: the Russia sign at the border. Photo: Ernst Selin.

The eVisa itself was straightforward. My friend was my guide throughout and helped me get around, which mattered because I couldn’t use the internet freely. I had to bring US dollars into Russia to change into rubles. I knew some Russian, but my friend helped me with the language too — having someone local with me made the whole thing far easier.

Pechory and on to St Petersburg

The first thing we saw was the great monastery at Pechory, close to the border, before taking the train onward to St Petersburg. People were very nice everywhere — even the guards and police. People asked me where I was from, and I felt honoured to be in Russia. I loved being there, seeing the astonishing buildings and the marvellous views.

St Petersburg in summer barely gets dark, and the light lingers on the water long into the evening. I spent a good while just walking the canals and bridges.

Ernst in a hat and shirt on a bridge over a St Petersburg canal at golden hour, boats moored below
On a bridge over the Moika, St Petersburg, in the long northern evening light. Photo: Ernst Selin.

The palaces are every bit as overwhelming as you’d hope. Inside the Hermitage — the old Winter Palace — the Jordan Staircase alone is worth the trip.

The white-and-gold Jordan Staircase of the Winter Palace at the Hermitage, crowded with visitors
The Jordan Staircase inside the Hermitage — the old Winter Palace. Photo: Ernst Selin.

If you’re planning a visit, Irena’s guide to the Hermitage and how to buy tickets is a big help.

Out of the centre, I took the trip to Peterhof, with its Grand Cascade tumbling down towards the sea — an unforgettable sight on a clear day.

The Grand Palace at Peterhof with its golden fountains and Grand Cascade under a blue sky
The Grand Cascade at Peterhof, just outside St Petersburg. Photo: Ernst Selin.

Peterhof is easy to reach for the day; Irena explains the options in her guide on how to get to Peterhof. Back in town, the great squares open up one after another.

St Isaac's Square in St Petersburg with the Mariinsky Palace and the equestrian monument to Nicholas I
St Isaac’s Square in the morning sun, St Petersburg. Photo: Ernst Selin.

The night train to Moscow

Registration went well — no problem there. Then we took the night train to Moscow, and I was so impressed by the capital. The overnight train is a classic way to make the journey.

Moscow was safe everywhere I went, the architecture was amazing, and people seemed happy, getting on with life as usual. I especially loved Red Square and taking a boat along the Moscow river.

St Basil's Cathedral in Moscow with its colourful onion domes under a blue summer sky
St Basil’s Cathedral — even more astonishing in person. Photo: Ernst Selin.
Ernst standing in front of Lenin's Mausoleum on Red Square, with the Cyrillic name Lenin above the door
Outside Lenin’s Mausoleum on Red Square. Photo: Ernst Selin.

Inside the Kremlin walls, the Ivan the Great Bell Tower rises over the cathedral square.

The Ivan the Great Bell Tower with golden domes inside the Moscow Kremlin against a bright sky
The Ivan the Great Bell Tower inside the Moscow Kremlin. Photo: Ernst Selin.

I was surprised by how big everything was. There were fewer tourists from other countries than I expected — mostly Asian visitors — and I felt privileged to be there. The food is often cheap and tasty. And when you’re in Moscow, you simply have to take the metro: it’s always running, and the interiors are pretty spectacular.

The ornate vaulted ceiling of Kiyevskaya metro station in Moscow, with chandeliers and framed mosaics
Kiyevskaya station — the Moscow metro really is spectacular. Photo: Ernst Selin.

Above ground, Moscow keeps switching registers on you — from the gleaming towers of Moscow City…

The glass skyscrapers of Moscow City business district and a covered pedestrian bridge over the river
The gleaming towers of Moscow City. Photo: Ernst Selin.

…to the grand Soviet-era ensemble at VDNKh, with its golden fountains and monumental statues.

The golden statues of the Friendship of Peoples fountain at VDNKh in Moscow, water spraying behind them
The Friendship of Peoples fountain at VDNKh, in full flow. Photo: Ernst Selin.
The stainless-steel Worker and Kolkhoz Woman monument in Moscow against a clear blue sky
The Worker and Kolkhoz Woman monument near VDNKh, Moscow. Photo: Ernst Selin.

For where to stay, I’d recommend the Gamma-Delta hotel at Izmailovo (part of the “Tvoy Hotel” group). It’s a bit outside the centre, but the room and the view were good.

The road home, through Narva

The trip wouldn’t have been the same without the help of my friend and his family. My way home was through Estonia again, but this time by the border at Narva. I was a little worried, because I had another interview, where they asked me questions about my friend and my family. But some of the guards had a sense of humour, and we ended up laughing together. I loved those moments of real contact with people — they feel meaningful and important.

The Estonia-Russia border crossing at Narva seen on a grey rainy day, with the bridge over the river
The Narva crossing on the way home — grey skies for the last leg. Photo: Ernst Selin.

After the Russian border I crossed Narva easily, with no inspection at all. I reached the airport by train and then flew home to Stockholm. It was one of the best trips of my life.

Have you travelled to Russia recently and want to share your own experience? Tell me about your trip here and I’ll publish it in this section, with your name or anonymously, whichever you prefer. You can also drop by the Russiable forum to ask questions or compare notes. Stories like Ernst’s are exactly what help other first-timers take the plunge.

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