Upper Lars Border Crossing: Complete Guide to Crossing Between Georgia and Russia

Upper Lars is the only land border between Russia and Georgia — and one of the most unpredictable crossings in the world. In a single year it closed 42 times, accumulated over 200 hours of closure in February alone, and generated queues of up to 20 hours in August. I have analysed hundreds of messages from Telegram channels dedicated to this crossing over the course of a full year to tell you when to cross, when to avoid it, what you need, and what to expect inside the avalanche tunnels of the Krestovy Pass.

Why Upper Lars matters

The Верхний Ларс (Verhniy Lars / Upper Lars) crossing is the only land connection between Russia and Georgia. It sits on the legendary Georgian Military Highway (Военно-Грузинская дорога), crosses the Krestovy Pass at approximately 2,379 metres above sea level, and links Stepantsminda (Kazbegi, Georgia) with Vladikavkaz (North Ossetia, Russia).

If you want to enter Russia overland from the south — to explore the North Caucasus, climb Mount Elbrus, visit Vladikavkaz, or continue towards Sochi, Moscow, or St Petersburg — this is your only open crossing from Georgia. The typical route for a foreign traveller is to fly into Tbilisi and travel north by car, shared taxi, or marshrutka to the border.

But be warned: this is not a normal crossing. It is a high-altitude mountain post where avalanches, snow, and landslides call the shots. In winter it can remain closed for weeks at a time. In August, queues can exceed 20 hours. Planning carefully makes the difference between a memorable adventure and a logistical nightmare.

I analysed hundreds of messages from Telegram channels covering this crossing over an entire year to write this guide. The data don’t lie.

Basic facts about the crossing

When to cross: the real closure calendar

During the year analysed, the crossing closed 42 times. But those closures are far from evenly distributed. Here is the statistic you need to remember:

35 of the 42 closures that year occurred between December and March.

In other words: if you cross between June and November, the probability of finding the border closed is significantly lower. If you cross between December and March, the risk is real and high.

Breaking it down by month:

• June, September, October and November 2025: zero closures. Not a single one.
• January 2026: over 130 hours (5.5 days) of cumulative closure.
• February 2026: nearly 200 hours (over 8 days) of cumulative closure.
• May and July: occasional closures, mainly due to landslides.
• August: zero closures, but extreme queues (see below).

The longest closures of the year

• 29 May – 13 August 2025 (~76 days): closure for trucks due to roadworks on the Georgian side. Cars were allowed through with intermittent restrictions.
• 5 – 25 December 2025 (~20 days): full closure due to extreme snowfall. Twenty consecutive days with no crossing possible.
• 9 – 15 January 2026 (~6 days): full closure due to avalanches. Rescue services could not send machinery to clear the road due to the risk of further avalanches.
• 26 February – 2 March 2026 (~4 days): full closure followed by partial closure due to heavy snowfall.
• 2 – 5 February 2026 (~70 hours): full closure due to severe weather conditions.

Best and worst times to cross

The golden months are June, September and October. Zero closures in the year analysed, pleasant temperatures, and manageable queues. If you have any choice over when to cross, choose one of these months.

The second half of May and the first half of November are also good options. May can still see late snowfall early in the month, and November marks the transition into winter, but in the year analysed both periods operated without significant disruption.

July and August come with caveats. The crossing is open, but two risks apply. The first: landslides and mud flows (сель) triggered by summer storms — in July 2025, a landslide near the border closed the pass without warning in the middle of the night. The second, and more relevant for most travellers: the massive queues that build up in August, covered in their own section below.

Avoid December, January, February and March at all costs unless you have no alternative. This is not a question of possible delays: it is a very real risk of being stuck for days or even weeks with no crossing possible. In December 2025 the border was closed for 20 days in a row.

Reversible traffic: the wait nobody tells you about

Even when the crossing is officially “open”, there is one detail that can cost you an extra hour — and that most guides never mention.

In the Krestovy Pass area, traffic moves through avalanche protection tunnels in reversible mode (реверсивный режим). There is a single lane that alternates direction: vehicles going one way pass first, then stop, and vehicles going the other way pass through. One side at a time.

When estimating your travel time, add at least one hour for the reversible section. During peak season or immediately after a reopening, the wait can be considerably longer.

Tyres and chains at the Krestovy Pass

These rules apply in both directions.

From 1 December to 1 March, on the Mleta–Kobi section (which covers the entire Krestovy Pass), winter or all-season tyres are mandatory. Requirements:

• Maximum tyre age: 10 years (the year of manufacture must be visible on the tyre).
• Tread depth must be adequate. Worn tyres may be rejected.
• Traffic police actively enforce compliance.

From 1 March to 30 November, summer tyres are permitted. However, note that snow can fall on the Krestovy Pass even in April. In April 2025, a snowfall closed the pass for four days and Telegram channels were warning directly: “today it is better not to drive the Military Highway on summer tyres — it is snowing”.

Snow chains and anti-slip bracelets are optional year-round. My recommendation: if you are crossing between November and April, keep a set in the boot as a precaution. And if you have never fitted chains before, practise at home. You do not want to learn with snow falling at -5 °C on a mountain road.

If you are crossing from Georgia into Russia

This is the most common direction for a foreign traveller: you fly into Tbilisi, drive north along the Military Highway, and cross into Russia to visit the North Caucasus, climb Mount Elbrus, see Vladikavkaz, or continue towards Sochi, Moscow, or St Petersburg.

Russian visa

Most foreign nationals need a visa to enter Russia. You have two options:

1. Traditional consular visa. Allows multiple entries, longer stays, and any purpose of travel (tourism, business, family visit). Applied for at a Russian consulate or through an authorised agency.

2. Electronic visa (e-visa). Upper Lars is one of the border crossings authorised for entry into Russia with an e-visa, which is great news if you are travelling on this type of visa. Key details:

• Single entry only.
• 30 days’ validity from the date of issue.
• Applied for entirely online, no invitation letter required.
• Faster and cheaper than the consular visa, but more limited in scope.

If you are not familiar with the Russian e-visa or are unsure which option suits you, I have a complete guide to the Russian electronic visa where I explain how to apply step by step, which nationalities are eligible, and which border crossings are authorised.

If you are crossing in your own vehicle (car, motorcycle, or motorhome), you may also find useful my specific guide to travelling to Russia by car, motorcycle, or motorhome, where I cover customs procedures, temporary vehicle importation, and the mandatory OSAGO insurance required inside Russia.

Travel medical insurance (mandatory)

Russia requires travel medical insurance from foreign nationals applying for a visa — including the e-visa. The coverage must meet certain minimum requirements and the insurer must be recognised by the Russian authorities. Not all policies qualify, and this is one of the most common mistakes travellers make.

I have written a detailed guide on travel medical insurance for Russia where I explain which coverages are mandatory and which companies meet the requirements for both the e-visa and the consular visa.

Connectivity: eSIM and VPN

Two things you need to have sorted before crossing, not after:

An international eSIM with coverage in Russia. It lets you have mobile data from the very first minute after crossing the border, without depending on a Russian SIM. Buying a local Russian SIM as a foreigner has become highly complicated since January 2025 (it now requires registration on a government platform and a Russian social security number). An eSIM is the practical solution and the one I recommend to all travellers heading into Russia.

A VPN installed and configured before you leave home. Many Western services are blocked or restricted in Russia: Instagram, Facebook, some news websites, and a growing number of apps. Install it and test it before entering the country, because downloading it once inside Russia can be difficult or impossible.

Russian customs: what you can bring in without problems

Russia allows the following without declaration:

• 3 litres of alcohol per adult. The 4th and 5th litres are dutiable at €10 each and must be declared. Above 5 litres, importation is not permitted.
• 200 cigarettes per adult (or 50 cigars, or 250 g of tobacco).
• Personal effects within reasonable limits.

Cash: if you are carrying more than USD 10,000 equivalent (in any currency), you are required to declare it in writing. If it is found undeclared, the penalties can be very serious — including criminal prosecution in flagrant cases.

Arriving in Vladikavkaz

Vladikavkaz is 35 km from the border — about 40 minutes by road. It is the capital of North Ossetia and an excellent base for exploring the Russian Caucasus. It has an airport with domestic flights to Moscow, a railway station, and a good range of hotels.

From there you can head towards Mount Elbrus, Chechnya, Dagestan, or catch a domestic flight to Moscow, St Petersburg, or Sochi.

If you are crossing from Russia into Georgia

Although less common for foreign travellers, some people do the route in reverse: they enter Russia through another border (Finland, Estonia, Kazakhstan…), travel through the country, and exit via Upper Lars into Georgia to continue their journey or fly home from Tbilisi. If that is your case, here is what you need to know.

Georgian visa

Citizens of most EU countries, the UK, the US, Canada, Australia, and many other nations can enter Georgia without a visa. Always verify the current requirements for your specific nationality before travelling, as Georgia has been adjusting its visa policy in recent months.

You will need a valid passport at the time of entry. Georgia does not require any additional minimum validity period beyond the date of entry.

If you are travelling with children, there is a recurring warning in the Telegram channels: the passport photo of the minor must resemble the child as they look now. If the passport was issued when the child was six months old and they are now seven years old, there may be problems at the Georgian border control. Carry a birth certificate as a backup.

Mandatory medical insurance for Georgia (from 01/01/2026)

This is one of the most important changes of the year. Since 1 January 2026, Georgia requires mandatory medical insurance for all foreign tourists entering the country.

Insurance requirements:

• Minimum coverage: 30,000 lari (~€10,000).
• Must cover accidents, injuries, sudden illness, medical evacuation, and repatriation.
• Valid for the entire stay, from the moment of entry.
• Patrol police may request it anywhere inside the country, not only at the border.
• Can be purchased online from home before travel.

Many international travel insurance policies already meet the requirements, but not all. Check with your insurer before you leave. The policy you took out for Russia will most likely not cover you in Georgia.

Georgian car insurance (mandatory)

If you are crossing in a vehicle, you need a specific Georgian insurance policy called TPLI (also referred to as TPL). The European Green Card is not valid in Georgia.

• Minimum policy period: 15 days.
• Purchased online at the official site tpl.ge with any international card.
• Can also be purchased at the border crossing itself upon arrival.
• Driving without insurance: fine of 100 to 200 lari, even for very short stays or if the policy has just expired.

Traffic fines in Georgia: what you need to know

Georgia has significantly tightened its traffic enforcement in recent months. Approximate reference figures:

And what many travellers do not know:

• Smart cameras measure average speed between two points. Even if you slow down as you pass a camera, if your average speed over the section exceeds the limit, the fine will reach you.
• Cameras now detect whether passengers are wearing seatbelts, not just the driver.
• Fines triple if not paid within approximately two months.
• Fines do not expire: they will be waiting for you on your next visit to Georgia, even years later.

Tax Free

If you have purchased goods in Georgia and meet the conditions, you can reclaim VAT when leaving via Upper Lars:

• Who qualifies: foreign visitors staying less than 3 months with no residency permit.
• Minimum purchase: 200 lari (sometimes 250) in a single receipt, from shops participating in the Tax Free scheme.
• Time limit: maximum 90 days from the date of purchase.
• Condition: the item must be in its original packaging with the shop’s seal intact.

At the border post itself, after passing the Georgian exit control, you cross the road and enter the building on the Georgian entry side (customs). An official inspects the goods and receipts, gives you a document, and with that document you collect your refund at the Liberty Bank inside the same building — in lari or US dollars, in cash.

Knives and sharp objects

Since late 2025, vehicle interior searches in Georgia looking for knives — including folding knives — have become more frequent. Georgian law does not penalise owning a knife as such, but carrying one in a context that could be interpreted as threatening is another matter. A knife in the glove compartment, door pocket, or under the seat can easily be treated as “carrying a bladed weapon in a public place”.

If you carry a camping knife, multi-tool, or similar, keep it with your luggage in the boot, not in the passenger compartment.

Summer queues: the other enemy

The border does not close in summer, but the queues can be brutal — especially in August and especially in the Georgia → Russia direction.

Why? Before 1 September (the start of the school year), hundreds of thousands of Russians who have spent the summer in Georgia drive back home, creating epic tailbacks. In the year analysed:

• 18 August 2025: waits of 10–14 hours towards Russia.
• 24 August 2025: over 10 hours, with a rockfall, a fire, and a landslide all occurring simultaneously in the neutral zone (yes, all three at once).
• 25 August 2025: “only” 8 hours.

During these peak periods, the Georgian authorities activate a holding area in Kobi (отстойник, literally “settling tank”): vehicles are held there for hours until space becomes available at the border post. You do not go directly to the crossing — you wait in the holding area first.

This affects you even if you are not Russian. If you cross from Georgia into Russia in late August, you will encounter the same traffic jam regardless of the reason for your trip. The recommendation during these peak periods is explicit: “fill up the tank, bring water and food, and be patient”.

My advice: if you have any flexibility, avoid crossing towards Russia between 15 and 31 August. If it is unavoidable, set off in the early hours of the morning and prepare for a very long day. Traffic in the opposite direction (Russia → Georgia) is much more fluid during those dates.

If the crossing closes: what to do

When the crossing closes, a forecast is usually posted along the lines of: “reopening before tomorrow is not expected — roads are not cleared at night due to the risk of avalanches”. This is a constant: snow is never cleared at night, because avalanche specialists do not authorise machinery in the area after dark.

Practical rules during a closure

1. Do not go and queue if the crossing is closed. The Telegram channels repeat this constantly: “there is no point joining the queue now — stay in hotels and follow the news”. Queuing with the crossing closed means freezing in your car for hours with no movement.
2. Find accommodation quickly:
   • Russian side: Vladikavkaz (35 km away, wide hotel choice).
   • Georgian side: Stepantsminda / Kazbegi (15 km away, many guesthouses) or Gudauri (ski resort with good infrastructure).
3. Follow the Telegram channel @Verhniy_Lars in real time. If you do not want to wade through thousands of messages in the live chat, the main channel filters the essential information with concrete updates.
4. Fill up the tank and carry water, food, and warm clothing. When the crossing reopens after a closure, significant queues form due to the build-up of vehicles. You may face additional hours of waiting even after the reopening.
5. Check the weather forecast for Gudauri and the Krestovy Pass. If more snowfall is forecast over the coming days, the situation may drag on and it is worth replanning.

How a reopening works

1. Precipitation stops.
2. Avalanche specialists assess the safety of the slopes.
3. If it is safe, machinery begins clearing (daytime only).
4. Cars and buses open first. Trucks open later, sometimes days afterwards.
5. Traffic moves in reversible mode through the tunnels for the first few days.

The tunnel that will change everything (expected ~2027)

The biggest infrastructure news for the future of this crossing is the tunnel beneath the Krestovy Pass:

• 9 km long, bored beneath the Krestovy Pass between Tskere and Kobi.
• New Kvesheti–Kobi section: 23 km with 6 bridges and 5 tunnels, replacing the current 34 km via Gudauri.
• Estimated saving: 11 km and approximately one hour of travel time.
• Cost: 1.2 billion lari.
• Status in September 2025: one bridge and three tunnels completed; ventilation being installed in the main tunnel.
• Estimated opening: partial section before Gudauri in early 2026; full project by 2027.

Once this tunnel is in service, travellers will be able to bypass the Kobi–Gudauri section entirely — the stretch most prone to avalanche closures in winter. The old road via Gudauri will remain open for those who want to enjoy the spectacular views of the Krestovy Pass in summer.

Work is also progressing on the upgrade of the Stepantsminda–Gveleti section (Georgian side, close to the border): 4.5 km of new road with two bridges and two tunnels, including what will become the longest bridge in Georgia. Expected completion: 2027.

Alternative routes that do NOT work

Two routes that appear frequently in travel planning and are worth ruling out straight away:

Azerbaijan (land border closed). Azerbaijan’s land borders have been closed since April 2020 under a quarantine regime that has been repeatedly extended. It remains the last country in the world with this restriction in place. Entry is only possible by air. If you are thinking about a circular route Russia–Georgia–Azerbaijan–Russia overland, it is not possible.

Sochi–Trabzon ferry (does not exist). During 2025 there were several attempts to relaunch a ferry service between Trabzon (Turkey) and Sochi. The vessel Seabridge completed an initial passenger voyage in November 2025 but never received permission to dock in Sochi and returned to Trabzon after waiting three days offshore. In December 2025, the Russian authorities officially shut down the route. As of today, there is no maritime service between Turkey and Russia.

Upper Lars remains, in practice, the only overland option into the Caucasus from Georgia.

Checklist: preparing your Upper Lars crossing

Before leaving home

• Valid passport (and if travelling with children, an up-to-date photo in the child’s passport)
• Russian visa — consular or e-visa — if your destination is Russia
• Travel medical insurance with valid coverage for Russia (and Georgia, if applicable)
• International eSIM set up and tested
• VPN installed and tested before you leave
• Cash in euros or US dollars
• Winter or all-season tyres if travelling between November and April
• Snow chains in the boot (recommended in winter)
• Georgian car insurance (TPLI) purchased if entering Georgia with a vehicle
• Telegram installed with channels @Verhniy_Lars and @VerhniyLars

On the day of crossing

• Check the Telegram channels for the current status of the crossing
• Check the weather forecast for Gudauri / Krestovy Pass
• Full tank, water, food, and warm clothing in the car
• Phone battery charged and car charger within reach
• Add one hour to your estimated travel time for the reversible tunnel section

Key takeaways

1. Upper Lars is the only land border between Russia and Georgia — and a highly unpredictable high-altitude crossing.
2. Best time: June, September and October. Zero closures in the year analysed.
3. Worst time: December–March. 35 of 42 annual closures fell in those months; closures of up to 20 consecutive days.
4. August: crossing open but queues of 10–20 hours in the Georgia → Russia direction.
5. Upper Lars is one of the authorised checkpoints for entering Russia with an e-visa (single entry, 30 days).
6. Mandatory medical insurance for Georgia since January 2026 (minimum ~€10,000).
7. Winter tyres mandatory from December to March on the Mleta–Kobi section.
8. If the crossing closes, do not join the queue: find a hotel and wait in warmth.
9. The Krestovy tunnel (~2027) will radically change the situation in winter.