Driving to Russia in the Dead of Winter: Miki’s Chronicle (from Girona to Sarapul)

I’m carrying on with the traveler chronicles, and today’s is a special one because it’s not like any I’ve published. Miki lives in Girona, in Spain, he’s Ecuadorian —so he doesn’t need a visa to enter Russia— and he’s married to a Russian woman. In December 2025 he did something almost no one dares to do: drive across half of Europe and enter Russia through Latvia, in the dead of winter, to reach Sarapul, in the republic of Udmurtia. And, along the way, see Moscow and Kazan. Here’s the approximate route he drove:

It’s his third trip to Russia and the second he’s done behind the wheel. He tells me the first one by car was «a lot of nerves and fear in my gut» and that this one, by contrast, was «a walk in the park». If the idea of driving all the way to Russia is on your mind, or you just want to know what the country is like at Christmas, his account is a gem.

I’ve shaped his account so it reads at an easy pace, but everything he tells is his own, with his tips and his own photos. Thanks, Miki, for sharing it.

Driving across half of Europe to the Russian border

I left Spain and crossed France, Germany, Poland, Lithuania and Latvia to the border with Russia. It’s the second trip I’ve done by car: I remember the first with a lot of nerves and fear in my gut, because I didn’t know what I’d run into. This one, by contrast, was a walk in the park. In all, it’s my third trip to Russia: the first I did by plane, from Girona to Moscow, and from Moscow to Sarapul on the Trans-Siberian, which was a dream.

Money: why I ended up changing to dollars in Latvia

One thing changed compared to my first trip by car: the money. The first time I was able to cross the Latvian border carrying euros. This time no: I had to turn back and change to dollars in Latvia. And watch out, because in one of its cities, if you don’t justify the source of the money, they won’t let you change euros to dollars. With the dollars in hand, we were able to move on to the Russian border. My advice: bring dollars, and in new bills.

The Russian border: lots of questions, the phone and an interview

Crossing the Russian border was the most intense part of the trip. They asked me lots of questions, took my phone for an hour —but all fine— and then there was an interview. Worth knowing: if the Russian authorities don’t like something, they won’t let you in. In my case everything was fine and, once inside, the trip became super easy.

1,800 km across Russia in winter: the M12 and diesel at 60 rubles

Inside Russia, around 1,800 km awaited me to Sarapul, passing through Moscow and Kazan. And here came one of the best surprises: the new M12 motorway made the trip enormously easier. Driving across Russia in winter, which sounds like a feat, was comfortable. Diesel was at 60 rubles a liter, what a joy! And there was diesel everywhere: in supermarkets, in villages and at the rest and service stations, all heated. Many shops are open 24 hours, so you never feel stranded.

Hotels: a border one that almost didn’t let me in

All the hotels were great except one, near the border, where they didn’t admit foreigners. In the end they admitted me by paying a 30-dollar fee. A practical heads-up: keep the invoice and receipt for everything, because they can ask you for them.

Arriving in Sarapul: registering with the police

When I arrived in Sarapul, I had to register my entry with the police. The registration is done with the person who receives you —in my case, at my mother-in-law’s house— and they give you a hugely important piece of paper: they can ask you for it at the border, both for the vehicle and for you. Don’t lose it.

Irena’s note: I explain how this works in the guide on the registration of foreigners in Russia.

The Russian winter, something magical

Russia in winter is very safe and full of life. There are loads of events: I saw a triathlon for the first time and it was really exciting. Every village had its Christmas market and huge trees. It struck me as something magical. We moved around everywhere without any problem.

How I’m already getting set up to go back: a Russian account, card and SIM

From going so often, I’ve gradually sorted out the practical side for future trips. I opened a Russian bank account and left some money in it, so I already have a card: it’s the easiest way to get around the country. I also have a Russian SIM on a contract, which I pay month by month. For all this I had to have my passport translated into Russian and notarized at the consulate. With that done, almost everything is sorted. And a note on cash: they only accept new bills.

This was my second trip by car and I’m already planning the next one for November. My guides were Rusalia and a few youtubers. If you want to live a magical adventure in winter, Russia offers a huge amount and at a very affordable price.

What I take away from Miki’s chronicle

I take away a whole lot from Miki’s adventure: that entering Russia by car and in winter is not only possible but can be «a walk in the park» thanks to the M12; that it’s a good idea to bring dollars in new bills and reckon with the border crossing (questions, phone check and interview); that the registration on arrival is sacred; and that, if you travel often, opening a Russian account and SIM —with your passport translated and notarized— is a game changer. And, above all, that the snowy Russia of the Christmas markets is really worth it. If you too started with the Trans-Siberian like Miki, you might enjoy Philippe’s story or the guide to organizing the Trans-Siberian.

Have you traveled to Russia recently and want to share your experience? Write to me with your account and your photos and I’ll publish it in this section, under your name or anonymously, whichever you prefer. Accounts like Miki’s are the ones that really help people who are planning their trip.