Veliky Novgorod is the oldest city in Russia and one of those places you really shouldn’t skip if you’re travelling between Moscow and St. Petersburg. It sits about 190 km south of St. Petersburg (three hours by train), its historic centre is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and you can see it in a single relaxed day: the oldest Kremlin in the country, the Cathedral of Saint Sophia, the medieval churches of Yaroslav’s Court and the frescoes of Theophanes the Greek, unique in the world. Here I’ll tell you how to get there, how to plan your visit and what to see, with up-to-date prices and opening hours.
Why Veliky Novgorod is worth a stop
They call Veliky Novgorod “the birthplace of Russia”, and it’s not just a tourist-brochure line: according to tradition, in the year 862 Prince Rurik settled here and gave rise to the first Russian state. In fact, the imposing Millennium of Russia Monument you’ll see inside the Kremlin was raised in 1862 precisely to celebrate those thousand years of history.
During the Middle Ages it was one of the richest and most powerful cities in Eastern Europe. While much of Russia fell under Mongol rule, Novgorod escaped destruction and ran for centuries as a republic governed by an assembly of citizens, the veche, something quite extraordinary for the time. That independence lasted until 1478, when Ivan III absorbed it into Moscow.
Today it’s a quiet city of around 220,000 people on the banks of the Volkhov River, with 37 monuments declared UNESCO World Heritage Sites back in 1992. It’s also the homeland of composer Sergei Rachmaninoff, who was born in this region and has his monument here. And careful, don’t confuse it with Nizhny Novgorod, which is a much bigger city more than 1,000 km away.
How to get to Veliky Novgorod
The most comfortable option is the train, and the good news is that Novgorod’s station is right next to the centre: about a 10-15 minute walk, or a short ride on bus number 7.
From St. Petersburg (the easiest option)
It’s a breeze. The fast Lastochka train covers the 190 km in about three hours. It leaves from Moskovsky station (St. Petersburg-Glavny) and arrives at Novgorod-na-Volkhove station. There’s usually a train first thing in the morning (around 7:25, arriving about 10:30) and return connections in the late afternoon and evening, perfect for a there-and-back day trip. Schedules change with the season, so confirm them before locking in your plan.
From Moscow
From Moscow it’s farther (about 550 km) and the best option is the overnight Ilmen train, which leaves Leningradsky station around 22:10 and reaches Novgorod in the early morning: you sleep on the train and get the whole day. The alternative is to take the Sapsan high-speed train to Chudovo and a bus from there to Novgorod, though it works out less neatly.
On the official Russian Railways (RZD) website you won’t be able to pay with a foreign card, because it requires a Russian MIR card. If you don’t have one, the easiest way to buy tickets from outside Russia is through an intermediary platform that accepts international cards. I explain it step by step in this guide: how to buy train tickets in Russia despite the sanctions.
How to plan your visit: one day or more?
Novgorod is comfortable to see in a day. You basically have two ways to fit it into your trip:
- Go there and back from St. Petersburg in the same day. It’s doable, but count on about six hours of train between the outbound and return legs: get up early and come back at night.
- Make it a stop on the way between St. Petersburg and Moscow. This is my favourite: you arrive in the morning from St. Petersburg, spend the day in the city and take the overnight train to Moscow at night (or the other way round). If you’re putting together the whole trip, this guide to itineraries around Russia can help.
Where to stay
If you’d rather take it slow, a night here is well worth it: the city at night, with the Kremlin lit up, is gorgeous. There’s everything, from budget hostels and apartments to more comfortable hotels; look for something central, near the Kremlin or Yaroslav’s Court. To book with a foreign card (Western platforms no longer work in Russia) the most practical option is to use a Russian platform. I explain how it works in this guide to accommodation in Russia with a foreign card.
Where to eat
Near the Kremlin and Yaroslav’s Court there are plenty of Russian-cuisine spots. My pick is Zavod, at Germana street 2 (ten minutes from the Kremlin, on the way to the station): inventive Russian cooking, a nice atmosphere and good views. It tends to be packed, so it’s best to book. Other well-rated options are Brewmen and La Chatte. And if you head out to Vitoslavlitsy, the Syty Gus restaurant (“the full goose”) is right there and a real winner.
What to see in Veliky Novgorod
The first thing I’d recommend as soon as you arrive: drop by the tourist information centre, which is next to the Kremlin. They’ll give you a city map and you can pick up an audio guide.
The tourist office suggests three routes that cover the essentials. Here’s a summary.
Route 1: the Novgorod Kremlin (Detinets)
The Kremlin (here they call it Detinets) is the star attraction and the oldest surviving kremlin in Russia. Entry to the grounds is free and it’s open from 6 in the morning to midnight, so you can wander inside at your own pace. What you pay for are the museums and exhibitions inside, open from 10 to 18h.
To see them, the combined “All the Kremlin” ticket (around 800 rubles) is good value: it includes the main museum building, the Faceted Chamber, the Fine Arts Museum and a couple more spaces. There are more complete tickets (1,100 and 1,700 rubles) that add churches with medieval frescoes and a guided tour. Prices change, so it’s worth confirming them on the Novgorod museum-reserve website.
Inside the Kremlin don’t miss the Cathedral of Saint Sophia, the oldest in Russia (built between 1045 and 1050). Entry is free: look out for its famous bronze doors and the central golden dome, crowned by a dove that is a real symbol of the city.
Right opposite stands the Millennium of Russia Monument (1862), a huge bronze sculpture shaped like a bell with more than a hundred figures from Russian history.
Two more things worth seeing in here: the Faceted Chamber (Vladychnaya or Granovitaya), 15th-century and Gothic, built with the help of German masters, which today holds the goldwork collection and the museum’s treasures; and the wall, whose walkway you can stroll along for a view of the city from above, though some sections and towers are under restoration right now.
And on your way out, in the park outside the walls, you’ll find the Rachmaninoff monument.
Route 2: Yaroslav’s Court and the old market
Cross the pedestrian bridge over the Volkhov (which gives you stunning views of the Kremlin) and you reach Yaroslav’s Court, on the Trade side of the river. This is where the medieval market stood, its arcade still survives, and a cluster of old churches gathers here: the Cathedral of St. Nicholas (the oldest, from 1113), the Church of Paraskeva and the Church of St. George, among others. It’s a lovely area for a stroll without needing to go into anything.
The frescoes of Theophanes the Greek (a must)
Very close by, on Ilina street, stands the Church of the Transfiguration of the Saviour (Spas na Iline), from 1374. From the outside it doesn’t look like much, but inside it holds something unique in the world: the frescoes painted in 1378 by Theophanes the Greek, one of the great Byzantine masters, who years later would work alongside Andrei Rublev in Moscow. It is the only surviving set of his frescoes. One thing to bear in mind: to protect the paintings, the church closes on rainy or very humid days, so if the weather turns you may not get to see it inside. Even so, take a peek: you’ll rarely be this close to a work like this.
Route 3: St. George’s Monastery and Vitoslavlitsy
If you’re staying longer or travelling by taxi, it’s well worth heading south of the city, towards the source of the Volkhov and Lake Ilmen. Two visits there complement each other.
St. George’s Monastery (Yuriev), founded in 1030, is one of the oldest in Russia. Entry is free and its St. George’s Cathedral, white and massive, is a marvel.
A few minutes away is the Vitoslavlitsy open-air museum of wooden architecture, with 34 churches, houses and izbas built of wood between the 16th and 20th centuries and brought here from all over the region. It sits beside Lake Myachino in beautiful surroundings, and even has a farm with animals and a restaurant. It’s open from 10 to 18h and entry for foreigners costs around 700 rubles (there are combined tickets that include the manor house). To get there, take bus 7, 7A or 53T from the station square (about 15 minutes).
And very close by, on the shore of Lake Ilmen, is the small Peryn skete, free to enter, ideal for rounding off the walk at a calm pace.
Frequently asked questions
How long do I need to visit Veliky Novgorod?
With one full day you’ll see the essentials: the Kremlin, the Cathedral of Saint Sophia, Yaroslav’s Court and the frescoes of Theophanes the Greek. If you want to add St. George’s Monastery and the Vitoslavlitsy museum, it’s better to set aside two days or go by car.
How do I get to Veliky Novgorod from St. Petersburg?
On the fast Lastochka train, which covers the 190 km in about three hours. It leaves from Moskovsky station and arrives at Novgorod station, a 10-15 minute walk from the centre.
Can I visit it in a day from St. Petersburg?
Yes. There are Lastochka trains in the morning and back in the late afternoon and evening, so you can go there and back the same day. Count on about six hours of train between the two legs.
How much does it cost to enter the Novgorod Kremlin?
Walking around the Kremlin grounds is free, and so is the Cathedral of Saint Sophia. For the museums inside, the combined All the Kremlin ticket is good value, costing around 800 rubles. It’s worth confirming the price on the museum website.
When is the best time to visit Veliky Novgorod?
From May to September, for the good weather to walk along the river. Winter is very cold, though the snow-covered city is very photogenic and has fewer tourists.
